Yes, I'm going back to one of my favorite places again...Wakeham Bay. Yes, I did go under the sea ice to pick mussels.
Here's how it happens.
We lived in a beautiful bay that was 24 miles deep and at places 6 or 7 miles wide. There was a very high tide ...40 feet. The bay froze over around the first of December because of the constant wind and high tides. Going in and out of the bay were strong currents...about 12 miles per hour. You wanted to come home when the tide would sweep you in to home. The beach was stony, rocky and covered with huge boulders Some boulders were 10 to 12 feet high. Now you have to remember all these details to get under the ice.
Later in the winter when the ice has become very thick and at high tides is the time to go under the ice. Yes, I know the tide comes in daily . But along with that there are higher tides when lined up with the moon.
When the tide goes out the ice settles on the beach but remember those huge rocks. Well, the ice parks on top of them . The ice sort of drapes over the rocks. What this does is to leave space under the ice around the rock. When there are a number of large rocks in a row it leaves a passageway under the ice.
So very carefully the Inuit choose where to make a hole in the ice. They choose a time when the tide is going out. A hole is made in the ice big enough for a person to go through. Sometimes a ladder is put in the hole for you to get down to the bottom. Then anybody who wants to go down is able to. Sometimes 15 - 20 people are under the ice.
A lantern is used to provide some light. You have a pail and start picking up mussels. Some water drips from overhead. You sometimes go 100 meters under the ice all the time walking on the ground. There is some cracking of the ice.
I will post a video of Lukasi , who you met before talking about the petroglyphs, now taking you under the ice. Lukasi's father , Napaaluk, was the person who took us down in 1967.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HNLdATjXH4
Now these were small black mussels and very tough. I didn't like them but, being a prairie boy that's not surprising. The kids would bring up a half pail of mussels to my house and I would give them some money. I didn't eat the mussels.
When I look at this video now I say I would never go under the ice now. In 1967 it was an experience of a lifetime to go under the ice.
I have read about it but I could never do that!
ReplyDeleteI'm surprised you've read about it.
DeleteWow Red, that is amazing but also very scary to be under all that ice! It does look like they were able to find a large amount of the mussels. Hey, you posted a link to a video and it worked great!
ReplyDeleteYou had to trust the Inuit as they had down this for ages.
DeleteLike Australian aboriginals, the Canadian Inuit peoples were so incredibly resourceful - finding ways to survive in a harsh environment. The mussel picking beneath the ice was just an example of this. How tragic then that contact with Europeans almost immediately created cultural collapse.
ReplyDeleteThe taking away of land destruction of culture has left all of us in a mess.
DeleteI sure wouldn't muscle my way under the ice. :)
ReplyDeleteWell, I wouldn't do this any more.
DeleteGoing under the ice would have scared the living daylights out of me!
ReplyDeleteThere were a few tight places that were a challenge.
DeleteThe cracking of ice would make me nervous. What an adventure, under the ice! I'll buy the mussels at the store or restaurant. Wishing you a happy day and week ahead!
ReplyDeletethere are different kinds of mussels. these were very tough.
DeleteThat sounds so scary! You were brave back then, but I'm glad you have the sense not to try something like that today. :-)
ReplyDeleteWell, I'm absolutely sure that you would do this right now. It's a challenge .
DeleteThat video is wild! I can't imagine digging a hole in that ice and climbing down below to gather mussels. It looks like quite an experience. Wow!
ReplyDeleteMost of the time there was lots of space but sometimes you had to go through small spaces.
DeleteHoly cow! That video is CRAZY! I've never heard of this phenomenon -- mussel picking in this way. I had no idea. You've gotta REALLY want those mussels, I guess.
ReplyDeleteI think in ages past they became very hungry and knew the mussels were there and went after them.
DeleteI can't even watch the video, your description makes me anxious and claustrophobic enough - what a resourceful, resilient people they are . . . and brave. Kudos to you for taking on this once in a lifetime (for outsiders) experience.
ReplyDeletethe Inuit were very good to us and looked after us. We appreciated how they looked after us.
DeleteThat is so dangerous. How fascinating, though, and I imagine a very welcome source of fresh food in the winter. You were brave and very trusting. Thanks so much for sharing this amazing experience.
ReplyDeletethere is some risk. Sea ice is a bit rubbery so sticks together. In other words it doesn't crumble and fall on top of you.
DeleteI've seen it in a documentary- I don't know if it was for mussels or something else, but Inuit people descending beneath the ice during a low tide.
ReplyDeleteVery interesting. Not something I would want to do, but they sure know how to do it safely.
ReplyDeleteYou have had the most amazing experiences!
ReplyDeleteI had a beautifully illustrated children's book about this in my elementary school library. It's title is Very Last First Time by Jan Andrews.
ReplyDeleteThat is quite an experience!
ReplyDeleteWell, Red, you have my absolute admiration. I could no more do that than I could row the Atlantic.
ReplyDeleteThis is a fascinating read, thanks Red!
ReplyDeletesounds bit creepy to me
ReplyDeleteyou have amazing hobby